Pillowcase Tutorial.

Pajama parties mean pillow fights, coziness, and eventually, sleep. The Linda Mae Pillowcase makes a great pillow that’s perfect for tossing at your friends, tucking under your arm while you lean over to hear a secret,
or snuggling up with when you finally fall asleep. And if you get whip-creamed for being the first one asleep- don’t worry! It’s easy to remove the pillowcase for washing.

The Linda Mae Pillowcase Pattern incorporates two different fabrics, and the slightly staggered placement of the Cowgirl Snaps brings the fabric on the back of the pillow up to peak out on the edges on the front.  This also gives the edges a charming, natural ruffle. The Linda Mae is only a tiny bit more complicated than the most basic pillowcase pattern, but so much more distinctive! No one will believe you when you tell them it only took you 45 minutes to make it for the first time.



I like to use contrasting colors or patterns for fabric on the front (piece A) and back (piece B).  I also like to choose a Cowgirl Snap color that either accents and pulls forward the (B) fabric, or contrasts strikingly with one or both. For this demo, I used hand dyed yellow cotton muslin for piece (B), a purple and white flowered vintage sheet for piece (A), and Marigold Cowgirl Snaps. It would also look great with perhaps a dark teal back, a neutral brown front and Chartreuse Cowgirl Snaps. Or perhaps a red gingham front, a matching solid red back, and alternating red and white Cowgirl Snaps? The options are endless!

Supplies


• Ruler
• Scissors
• Fabric marker or chalk
• 6 Cowgirl Snaps
• Dritz Snap Pliers or other snap affixing device
• 16″ x 16″ pillow form
• 1/2 yard front pillow fabric (A)
• 1/2 yard back pillow fabric (B)
• 1/4 yard fusible (iron-on) interfacing
• Sewing machine and thread

Approximate Time:
 30 – 45 minutes
Skill Level: 
Beginner
Making the Pillowcase


Instructions:

 Ok, here goes! 
First, of course, iron your fabric so it’s easy to work with and easy to cut evenly.

1. Measure and mark fabric (A) and (B): 23″W x 17″H . Cut 1 of each fabric . 2. Measure and mark fusible (iron-on) interfacing: 2″W x 17″H . Cut 4.

3. Lay pieces (A) and (B) in front of you, so that the rectangle is wider than it is tall. From here on out, I will refer to the edge on the left as side 1, the top as side 2, the right edge as side 3 and the bottom as side 4.

4. Place fabric right side down on the ironing board. Make a fold 2 1/2″ from the edge of sides 1 and 3 of pieces (A) and (B) and iron the fold down.

5. Unfold pieces. Place fusible (iron-on) interfacing along the edge of the fold on side 1 of the wrong side of piece (A) and iron using a cover cloth on top.

Interfacing should always be tucked away where no one can see it, and this is why it’s on the wrong side of the fabric. And do make sure the fusible side is against the fabric. This is the side that is textured and a little sticky sometimes. (Otherwise it will stick to the cover cloth instead of your fabric.) Iron interfacing on sides 1 and 3 of pieces (A) and (B).

6. Iron the edge of sides 1 and 3 over 1/2″ for pieces (A) and (B). This 1/2″ fold should cover the edge of the interfacing.

7. Refold the first folds you ironed, so that the interfacing is completely covered, and the raw edges are tucked away. Sew 1/8″ from the edge of the inner fold on sides 1 and 3 of pieces (A) and (B).

8. Place right side of pieces (A) and (B) together. Sew side 2 of pieces (A) and (B) together using 1/2″ seam allowance…

…Then sew side 4 of pieces (A) and (B) together using 1/2″ seam allowance. Almost done! Now it’s time for the snaps.

9. Measure and mark sides 1 and 3 of piece (A) (the fabric that will be on the front of your pillow) for snaps. Measure and mark a spot 4″ from the top seam, and 1″ from the outer edge of side 1. Measure and mark another spot 4″ down from the first, and another one 4″ down from that one, both 1″ from the edge. You should have 3 marks evenly spaced on your pillow, all 4″ apart and 1″ from the edge. Do the same for side 3 of piece (A).

10. Measure and mark piece (B) (the fabric that will be on the back of your pillow) for snaps. Measure and mark a spot 4″ from the top seam, and 1 1/4″ from the outer edge of side 1. Measure and mark another spot 4″ down from the first, and another one 4″ down from that one, both 1 1/4″ from the edge. You should have 3 marks evenly spaced on your pillow, all 4″ apart and 1 1/4″ from the edge. Do the same for side 3 of piece (B). Measuring this extra 1/4″ will give the pillow the cute edging and the extra oomph of ruffle.

Adding the Snaps

Now to apply the snaps! Please see my Dritz Plier tutorial for Cowgirl Snap application tips. When you’re putting on your snaps, remember that the finished pillowcase should have the bright sparkly pearl side of Cowgirl Snaps showing on the front, and the silver rings of the ring prongs showing on the back- the studs and sockets will be on the inside.

11. Load the Dritz pliers with a pearl prong and a socket. Your pillowcase should still be inside-out. Put it on your lap so that piece (A) is facing you. You should be able to see the marks you’ve made on the fabric. Hold the pliers so that the pearl prong side is on the bottom, and slip piece (A) in between the jaws of the pliers.

Position them over the first mark…

…And gently squeeze. Repeat for each mark on piece (A).

12. Load the pliers with the ring prong and stud. Your pillowcase should still be inside-out. Turn it over so that piece (B) is facing you. You should be able to see the marks you’ve made on the fabric. Hold the pliers so that the ring prong side is on the bottom, (Pic 18 ring prong in) and slip piece (B) in between the jaws of the pliers. Position them over the first mark…

…And gently squeeze. Repeat for each mark on piece (B).

13. Turn the pillowcase inside out, place pillow form inside and snap the Cowgirl Snaps together!

Your pillow is done – now go start a pillow fight!